The Final Installment of the Tutorial (Oh...relief!!!)

(the following work is a copyright of Anne M. Huskey-Lockard, 2009)

After yesterday, we were basically at the point of laying on ink gently to add to an aged appearance. This is what using one color does, with the majority of the ink being the Tim Holtz Vintage Photo brown, but also a bit of regular brown dye ink used.
Put a bit on, work it in with a rag, wipe it off to smooth the edges and make it seem stained or just aged paper.
One color family sometimes works fine, but I generally go in with black ink also. This photo below has black dye ink and I go back to my rough brush that I used for the gel and gesso application.
Tap it on the ink pad, or stroke very lightly to pick up small amounts of ink. VERY SMALL. Then begin to shadow along edges of paper, skim lightly over wrinkles, smudge a bit here and there after brush application with the rag. More texture begins to show, and the piece gains in interest.

When I have that done, to where I like it (and this is a matter of personal taste) I will go back with the STAZ-ON and do the edges of the canvas so it really is dark. That makes the center of the panel pop and sometimes, I will let just a touch of the ink go over onto the top of the panel.
At this point, you need to let everything dry very well.
You will then spray the begeezies out of it with a workable fixative (I use Krylon exclusively) and make sure the sides are sprayed too.
I can't say this enough:

HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION!!!

In the summer when it is hot and dry out, I'll go outside the studio door to do it. But most of the time I am in the cellar and I spray and run. Sit the piece down, again, let it dry well. When you get back to it you will notice the workable fixative has added depth to the work, the colors seem brighter and it also has left a bit of a slick finish. That's fine.

Next are stamps if you choose to use them, but you will want fluid acrylics or craft paint thinned with a collage medium. Dye ink will not dry on this--Staz-On will, but the color will be quite intense. I like the workability of the fluids and paints. This, again, is personal preference. You can stamp partial images, texture, whatever. Stamps must be cleaned immediately after use or you have just ruined your stamp. The paint does NOT come off with stamp cleaner once it's dried. I have a very soft old toothbrush and artists brush soap I use, but as long as it is something gentle, you're okay.
CLEAN YOUR STAMPS! They are a big investment even on sale!!!

This has a bit of texture stamped on. You can see the dark edges well in this photo and also how the fixative brought out the layers of texture in the rest of the piece.
So why am I stopping here? Because this is all you need to know for a background. Everything else, from here on, is foreground, and that is when you, gentle reader, make your personal statement. What is it you want to say or do? Do you strictly want to do an abstract? Do you want to do a painting? Do you want to collage on images and words?
Whatever you may consider, you're ready. Remember anything printed from an ink jet printer will have to have a good coat of the workable fixative before being applied. Anything that is not water proof becomes so with the workable fixative. Don't skimp.
I hope this has been of benefit to you and I hope to hear from some of you, that you've tried this and a photo would be even better! (hint hint!) Then we could have a blog post about what different ways we all went with the same technique.
Now, don't be afraid to try this, don't be afraid to ask me questions, but most of all, have fun with the art you make.
And if it flops, well, put it away like I did mine, let it *cure* for a while and then take it back out when your mind is clear! After all, that's what this is all about. Recycling. Everything, the art included!
Wishes for the best of luck and the best of fun.....

Pax.